Threefold

On paper, soups, salads and toasties sound ho-hum. In the real world (one with a marble bench, massive novelty lamp and all-smiles staff) they shine. Threefold's French focus means soups might be chicken and celeriac: clear broth bobbing with Puy lentils, cornbread on the side. Salads change so check the bench, where there might be bowls of roasted carrot and beetroot laced with pomegranate and dollops of goat's cheese, while toasties are filled with heart-stopping goodness: Polish sausage, sauerkraut and emmenthal. There's cold-drip coffee, pistachio-studded muesli slices, and even wine by the half-glass.