Titus Jones

Titus Jones is a small bar. A tiny bar. A cosy, snug and pint-sized bar where you have to suck in your gut like a dad on summer holiday just to make it from the beer taps to the back room without bowling over a bevy of locals.

It also sets a new gold standard for what a neighbourhood bar should be: a come-one-come-all watering hole for the people, with bloody great drinks to boot.

I'm here early on a Friday night, by myself and very out of luck in scoring a seat.  The First Ladies of Marrickville Book Club have commandeered Titus' front half, and are clearly having a hoot catching up on gossip and gnawing on a cheeseboard ($20) featuring English cheddar, Stilton and Cornersmith pickles from across the road.

A bloke in hi-vis nurses a schooner of Willie The Boatman "Albo" corn ale ($8) in one corner and in another nook there's a gent about 60 years -old wearing paisley and looking like a young Burt Bacharach. The rest of the bar is full of couples in fits of awkward laughter. If your Tinder radius is set within five clicks of Dulwich Hill, this is the place to meet.

There's a back area the size of a second child's bedroom with a few teensy tables and art prints you might find in Outre Gallery. The whole zone has been reserved for a party at 8pm, but it's only 7.30, so sod it, I'm taking a seat, ordering something delicious and having a party for one until then.

Owner Merrick Webb and his staff have compiled a little bobby dazzler of a drinks list where Australian spirits are given the microphone (applause please, ladies and gentleman). Gin is one of the headline acts with Archie Rose, Poor Toms, Ink, West Winds, Settlers and Melbourne Gin Company all featured. You can still ask for a (very good) dirty martini made with Bombay Sapphire, but when a Four Pillars barrel-aged gin martini is an option, support Australian distillers and enjoy the local stuff, I say.

There's a handful of not-bad wines and 10 or so house cocktails that aren't afraid to use fruit. The Blackbeard ($18) is a refreshing short glass of vanilla-infused Mount Gay rum, creme de cassis, egg white, Fee Brothers plum bitters and lemon. Rounded out by a splash of cloudy apple juice and garnished with wedges of granny smith it's the perfect companion for listening to warm rain pelt down on Illawarra Road.

Often when I'm checking out a bar by myself, it's one house cocktail, one classic, a snack then off to the pub. When I eventually do snare a stool at Titus Jones, a funny thing happens. I don't want to leave. I'm enjoying myself too much. The music playing is the kind that makes your head swoop instead of nod (James Brown and possibly latter-day Jurassic 5 although I'm too out of hip-hop loop to be sure), the staff are legends you want to spend time with and everyone in the room is smiling about something.

There's only so long you can spend at a bar yourself though, so after a well made negroni ($20) and pour of creamy Smallmouth vodka ($12), I'm on my way in search of noodles and feeling lucky to count myself as a Sydneysider. I can't wait to come back here with friends.

THE LOW-DOWN
Go for… local beer, spirits and mates.
Stay for… a chat with the champion staff.
Drink… The Blackbeard.
And… a fuller food menu is coming soon but there's toasties in the meantime and Pho Phd is only a pitching wedge away.