Tomah Gardens

Sean Moran (Sean’s Panaroma) has gone from beach to bush, adding an all-day, all-purpose cafe to his portfolio. There’s no blue Bondi ocean; instead a forest of blue-tinged eucalypts yawns into the distance. While service and surrounds can be a bit country casual, touches of Sean’s trademark whimsy abound: table legs fashioned from raw logs, and salt dishes and sugar pots straight from Snugglepot and Cuddlepie. Flavour, Moran’s surefooted trademark, is seen in corn soup with hand-formed chicken dumplings, which goes from soothing to scorching with a swirl of smoky chilli oil. Corned hogget, both nostalgic and retro, is a dish of our times and bears all the hallmarks of an assured cook. The dessert list woos, but nothing more so than a simple blackberry jelly with a generous splodge of peach leaf ice-cream. Country cooking surpassed.

And … Eggs, vegies and more from the Moran-Robertson country estate at Bilpin.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Storybook setting. 
Best bit View. And cooking.
Worst bit Not open for dinner.