Tomislav

Watch the mad old world go by on a soft Sydney evening at the Top of the Cross, and get a few extra thrills from a truly exciting modern menu. Tomislav Martinovic travels a clever path through four small but luscious courses, drawing on high technique, globally eclectic ingredients, and the art of surprise. The whipped butter on its smooth granite plinth, for instance, hides a wake-up coffee note. Frozen foie gras crumbs melt over a sunshine-yellow egg yolk, popping with cranberry and pickled turnip. Then there's the game of echoing and contrasting flavours. Two glorious strips of grilled wagyu tongue dissolve into a wattleseed toffee; XO quail on pine nut puree sparkles with sour cherry granita; and the caramelly charring of grilled nectarines blends marvellously into caramel ice-cream. The dining room with open kitchen is more workmanlike than elegant, so on a warm night, the generous balcony is the place to be, watching that mad old world go by.