Tonic

You’ll need to coin-flip to sort out who gets the view of Victoria Street’s western end. Not that there isn’t much to look at inside - Tonic shows an abundance of smart timbers, crisp linen and well-dressed bed-and-breakfasting couples to engage the retinas. It’s just that few things feed the soul like afternoon sunlight dancing around cobblestones and brickwork before retiring behind the distant hills. Chef Tony Worland excels at top-notch country cuisine with enough flair to make things interesting without being indulgent. Elegantly cooked lamb sweetbreads garner much applause on a stage of sweet corn puree and baby onions, and stuffed quail breast with figs and bacon is richly good fun. Venison and poached rhubarb are the best of friends in a terrific main course, before a pear belle Helene argues that too much poaching is never enough. It’s smiles all round.

And ... Make it a day trip and spend time in this lovely village.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Smart, modern, regional.
Best Bit Sit-down-and-take-a-load-off meal pacing.
Worst Bit A sea of grey carpet.