Town Hall Hotel

On the surface Fitzroy and Firenze may not have much in common but at this handsome corner pub they come together. A veteran when it comes to delivering polished Italian cuisine, Harry Lilai strikes the perfect balance of rustic European approachability and technical sophistication. Starters may include a crisp-based caramelised onion tart holding plump strips of delicately smoked duck breast and a quenelle of duck-liver parfait, or exemplary house-made pastas such as angel hair with super-fresh grilled scampi tails, tangy cured zucchini and the salt pop of anchovy crumbs. Peasanty mains like lemon- and paprika-laced slow-roasted capretto (goat stew) are satisfying, a good fit for the calmly understated dining room. Desserts such as creamy honey semifreddo with pinenut florentine and burnt orange sauce further push the case for getting comfortable. Service manages warmth and polish in equal measure; the relaxed front bar is a welcome post for fraternal pre- or post-dinner tipples.

And … There’s ample, dedicated space for private dining – upstairs and in the cellar below.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Congenial, delicious.
Best bit Who knew pub dining could be so good?
Worst bit Parking – take a cab.