Town Restaurant

A 7-course degustation with matching wines is not for the faint of heart or wallet, but what you get in return is a night of priceless poetry - of the edible kind. A narrow room in beige and cream tones welcomes, with quiet, informative service. Conceptual creativity bookends the meal. to start, beetroot 'sponge', an ethereal earthy amuse bouche; the finale, a blueberry cheesecake - the dish of the night - that's more like a molecular Eton mess of cream-cheese ice-cream, balls of nutty shortcrust crumble and jaw-dropping granita 'snow'. Between the two, a journey of wistful dishes unfolds that includes sashimi of kingfish with ponzu dressing, macadamia dust and wild rice crunch. Snapper fillet paddling in an intense ginger and shallot 'concentrate' segues to progressively richer courses such as rosy-cheeked beef, wok-fried mung beans and horseradish cream (albeit overpowered by a smoky reduction). Framed by counterpoints in flavour and texture, each course leaves you feeling this is a true regional gem.