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Tran's

Vietnamese$$

The bustling main road outside doesn't impinge on this calm, carpeted space of soft yellow walls, silk lanterns and photos of old Vietnam. The atmosphere's relaxed, too, with locals table-hopping and staff chatting with regulars. Non-veg mains strain the budget, but portions are generous, so sharing's the answer. Start with fresh spring rolls, plump with noodles, pork, prawns and herbs. Lemongrass chilli beef has subtle, balanced flavours, as do crisp-tender vegies with creamy peanut and coconut curry sauce, cooked in a claypot. There's French influence in the drunken cow (veal in a claypot with red wine and mushrooms) and in desserts that team Asian flavours (durian, mango, green tea) with European techniques and textures to winning effect.

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