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True Religion Espresso Bar

Antony Lawes

Getting a table at True Religion Espresso Bar as easily as we do for a midweek lunch cannot possibly last.

This tiny place, which owners Mariella Traina and Natalie Mandel opened about two months ago, does not have the longest menu — lunch is mainly paninis and salads — with some interesting breakfast fare such as Italian rostis. And there are probably other cafes with more vibe, notwithstanding the lovely, whimsical tree painted on the back wall.

But this place is bound to succeed because it does the simple things well.

The toasted panini with roast-herbed chicken, semi-dried tomato, brie and rocket ($8) is delicious and crunchy. My companion's tuna salad ($9) is generous, with big chunks of feta, pickles and tomato.

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But the highlight is the coffee. The El Salvadorean single origin ($3.50) is strong and rich with a wonderful nutty aftertaste. Their own five-bean blend ($3) also gets an approving nod from the coffee-nista across the table.

Add to that the service, which is friendly and knowledgable — and the more than reasonable prices — and there are plenty of reasons to queue, which you'll probably have to do once word gets out.

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