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Tulip

The pared-back decor forms a blank canvas for Tulip's innovative menu.
The pared-back decor forms a blank canvas for Tulip's innovative menu.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Modern Australian$$

It might be the little sibling to Gladioli in Inverleigh but Tulip, in the heart of Geelong West, is a destination-worthy diner in its own right. The decor's sharp, pared-back Scandinavian sensibility gives the smart, contemporary food the perfect blank canvas. Chefs Graham Jefferies and Matt Dempsey tip their hats to fashion without over-thinking things, from salt-and-vinegar puffed pork crackling to octopus with chorizo, roasted red capsicum and glossy squid-ink wafers, dusted in fennel pollen. Lightly cured kingfish with sea succulents and salty dashi powder balanced by yuzu cream and sharp bursts of pink grapefruit is a tribute to the sea, while pork belly goes Japanesque with the clarifying crunch of shredded kohlrabi, a bonito and mirin dressing and eggplant cream. To finish there's a brilliantly textural chocolate pavé, and the slick waiters will always have a good suggestion to linger over from the all-Victorian wine list that's as smart as Tulip itself.

And … Grab a pre-dinner cocktail at the bar.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
City-slick.
Best bit Some keen prices.
Worst bit Uncomfortable wooden chairs.

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