Twofold at the Civic

"Nice bones." It's probably one of the most uttered sentences when talking about the Civic - the city-based hotel long famous for its curvy art deco design, original tiling and, in more recent history, the (once vaguely scandalous) unisex loos.

Famous over the years for basement gigs and dance parties, the Civic has also seen its fair share of chefs through the kitchens, including, at one point, both Peter Conistis​ and his mum, who shared the pub's two dining spaces.

Since then, the upstairs space has turned into a pretty excellent Thai restaurant. And inside the main saloon, there's a brand new kitchen designed to reflect the bones of the original bar, which it does with some degree of success.

The seating is all communal-bar-style - cutlery in containers, ready-to-go napkins. You order and pay at the bar, take a number, food arrives. Good times that are low on the fizz so you can slam them down fast.

Twofold is run by Helena and Vikki Moursellas​ - a couple of food-loving former My Kitchen Rules starlets serving pub food peppered with Greek flavours. Because nothing says beer-soaked Grecian like identical-twin reality television celebrities. And for this crowd - mostly loud guys in various states of suit - it obviously works.

On the plate, you might see the likes of haloumi and spinach "sausage" rolls wrapped in filo pastry. Oiled-and-grilled pita bread makes a great foil for sweet, fatty lamb ribs (too fatty, actually - they need a little more time in the pan).

Deep-fried calamari (aka beer's best friend) is nicely seasoned, but sadly a little soggy. A salad of pumpkin in various degrees of cooked pairs up with pomegranate, feta and rocket leaves so large they looks like they're about to take off.

For my dime, it's all about the moussaka: rich and highly spiced lamb mince, fragrant with cinnamon and nutmeg layered with slow-cooked eggplant.

Sadly for me, there's no celebrity sighting. Which is actually fine - I didn't expect it, and by the looks of everyone sinking beers and eating bar snacks, nobody else does either.

Now, I'm not sure if there's a big difference in the output when the pair are working the pans, but whoever they've employed to run the place while they're off making appearances has a pretty steady hand on the tiller.

Nevertheless, this is a solid experience. It won't change your life, but chances are if you're drinking at the Civic on a Thursday night, you're not really in the market for much except a few schooners of New. Just add pie.   

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Check out the old-school phone booth with its very own room. No, it doesn't work, but yes, it's excellent for posing off for Instagram.
Try this The moussaka, with its cinnamon-fragrant lamb mince and light creamy bechamel, is the best thing on the menu - perfect pub dining.