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Uccello

Bright and breezy... Uccello.
Bright and breezy... Uccello.Kai Godeck

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

Ivy means many different things to Sydney people but mostly it spells ‘party playground’ - from bars to nightclub and penthouse, to rooftop pool and ballroom. Which is why chef David Lovett pulls off a considerable feat at Uccello, a bright and breezy restaurant with grey and yellow shades, open to the elements on one side, stacked with wood on another, with open kitchen between. If the pool party antics aren’t a distraction, the high decibels may be, yet the chefs make the food move to its own rustic Italian beat. From roasted pork belly to beef tripe, char-grilled tuna dressed with Sicilian-style salsa and grilled and sliced steak tagliata style, it’s true to its roots. Chilli and lemon-spiked scampi is sweet with wood smoke and wild mushroom gnocchi nuggets have a hint of thyme. To end, a classic semifreddo is simply buonissimo.

And … Book early and request a poolside table to see Sydney at play.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
Party, party, party.
Best bit Sydney on show.
Worst bit Service can be a little too speedy.

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