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Ume Restaurant

Ume Article Lead - narrow
Ume Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Japanese$$

The old Bistrode site looks much as it always did, with its shopfront window, narrow galley-like kitchen, white tiles and bistro tables and chairs. However, the odd Japanese artefact and a vast plum blossom mural suggest that gutsy nose-to-tail eating is no longer the order of the day. Instead, former Koi head chef Kerby Craig turns out some of the most refined and skilfully updated Japanese classics in Sydney. Scallop carpaccio comes as a virtual flower of sea-sweet petals of scallop, cleverly dressed with soy brown butter and lightly seared. A salad of roasted baby heirloom carrots and brussels sprouts served on a bed of dashi custard is full of intense, lively flavours; and shiro dashi butter-poached Cone Bay barramundi with sea flora - soft-crisp, beautifully rested - is like a day at the seaside. Finish with sushi as tradition dictates, or go on to a tongue-tingling dessert of red bean sponge with tea jelly, hojicha ice-cream and yuzu zest.

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