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Urbane

Artfully presented on driftwood, stones and micro-herb gardens, the dishes could exhibit in GOMA.
Artfully presented on driftwood, stones and micro-herb gardens, the dishes could exhibit in GOMA.Supplied

17.5/20

Contemporary$$$

Artfully presented on driftwood, stones and micro-herb gardens, the dishes could exhibit in GOMA. Yet Argentinian-born chef Alejandro Cancino delivers flavours that hit the comfort-food spot; pleasing your tastebuds as much as your eyes. The seasonal menu is degustation only with five or nine courses – but that's misleading in the best possible way. The chefs creatively use up surplus ingredients, meaning you could receive several additional dishes. A sweet tomato broth draws out every last flavour molecule then amplifies them; just-tender vegetable spheres pop on the tongue. Creamy tendrils of chargrilled octopus team deliciously with juicy green apple and golden rye crumbs. A parcel of lamb shoulder with sugar snap puree and a dollop of horseradish is like the best of Sunday roasts. ‘Different textures’ of cassis translates as a version of deconstructed cheesecake with pureed and meringued berries – the perfect end to a dining experience not easily forgotten. 

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