Vasco

ITALIAN ROCK 'N' ROLL IS NOT THE only thing on offer at this small bar named after the country's favourite rock god, Vasco Rossi, although the bar's Italian owner, Max Greco, dishes up a fair bit of it with his constant bashing of cymbals and snare drums hanging from the roof.

Rather, Greco has built his own little repository of amazing global rock memorabilia, revved-up cocktails and Italo-flavoured snacks at this hilariously off-kilter bolt-hole down the Bourke Street end of Cleveland Street.

A South American small bar, Boteco, occupied this space for a little while but failed to do anything spectacular.

We're banking the spot's new Continental residents will do better, considering the cred and the quality that's here. Greco is a former Eau de Vie bartender and, with Luke Ashton of the Roosevelt, has created a strong cocktail list.

Rock lyrics and the names of famous artists have been bastardised into things such as a Hendrix Experience (Hendrick's gin, Lillet Blanc, aromatic syrup, fragolino, $18) and a Lucy in the Sky (Absolut blood cherry, pineapple syrup, grapes, lemon, $17.50).

The list emphasises dark spirits, Italian liqueurs and refined presentation rather than anything camp and fruity. The menus are housed in old 45 covers and every inch of this bar has been rock-ified, down to the bowls made out of melted records.

People talk about small bars being an extension of their owners and this couldn't be more true of Vasco.

It's like walking into the bedroom of Greco's slightly odd teenage self: his two Fender guitars (which he can't play) are on the walls, along with old posters, record cases, stacks of Foo Fighters memorabilia, black-and-white photos by legendary photographer Ross Halfin, a jukebox out the back, business cards on guitar picks, T-shirts hanging from the roof, Fender guitar stools and, as mentioned, a cymbal, a snare drum and a disco ball dangle perilously over your cocktails.

''I've always been a little bit of a rock'n'roll collector but I always had a little house so I could never put it on the walls,'' he says.

''The Foo Fighters are my favourite. I'm making a Foo corner.''

The food and drink is certainly not the cheapest in Sydney (although there's happy hour between 5pm and 7pm and free aperitivo on Wednesdays) but don't be deterred.

Huge log-like polenta chips with gorgonzola sauce, smoky hot dogs and handmade gnocchi are washed down with cans of Peroni ($6).

My pick of the cocktails is the Peruvian Riots (Encanto pisco, sloe gin, cinnamon syrup, apple, lemon, peach bitters, $17.50) - a wonderfully foamy, smooth creation.

The Batang-ita (Calle 23 tequila, sherry, chinotto, lime, smoke salt, $17.50) is the weakest link - an unspectacular tall glass of weak, fruity stuff not worth the price tag.

Better still are the staff. Like Greco, they're great characters who look like they're just having damn good fun. One blatantly tells my companion she can't have a vodka, lime and soda because it's too boring (too right) and instead gives her a water.

Another talks me out of getting a water and into a can of beer. Again, too right. This is a great little bar to drop into and rock on out.

YOU'LL LOVE IT IF … you like the slightly unusual small bars.

YOU'LL HATE IT IF … rock music and eccentric bartenders are not your bag.

GO FOR … Peruvian Riots, Italian hot dogs, Foo Fighters memorabilia.