Vasko

Finding a contemporary 'designed' space - all polished surfaces and interesting angles - is a surprise on this conventional shopping strip, never mind that it's the setting for both crowd-pleasing dishes and down-to-earth service. The eponymous title should be a hint. after 40 years in hospitality, Vasko Dzanovski enjoys doing things his way. Thus, a South American detour on an otherwise Med-centric menu makes perfect sense. chimichurri quail is a plump, sweet-smoky barbecued delight and works a treat with charry cevapcici sausages. A field mushroom baked with feta and herbs might be a little dry, but otherwise execution is assured. a hulking chicken saltimbocca (no 'dainty' servings here) on baked polenta sports a punchy sage jus, while spaghettini brims with tiger prawns, the sweetness of cherry tomatoes offset by blackened capers. To finish, a slab of tiramisu is comforting, if not as boozy as the three liqueur inclusions might suggest.