Versatile Restaurant

Is this what it's like to be put out to pasture? That's what it feels like to be sent to the suburbs at my life stage. I walk through Gold Creek, past quaint little villages, other dinosaurs, ye olde taverns and so many shops selling soap and decorated door wedges. Is this like where you go when you retire? The only time you come here is with the elderly, the young or speaking at Rotary. Is this a message from my editor?

The destination is a place called Versatile: adjective – able to adapt or be adapted to many different functions or activities. So there's no excuse turning up here scarf in hand, expecting a micro-brewery, wood-smoke grill and milk crates. This is functionality in name and nature. It does look versatile if you need a squarish, open yet adaptable space with good natural lighting during the day but still moody at night when the guests might want a dance.

This is the sister – well, maybe the great-aunt – of eclectic, hip 'n happenin' Soju Girl in the city and sober older brother Ellacure in Belconnen. There's one thing about the team behind this multi-faceted (or versatile) group, they know how to fit in to the demographic. It's not their fault that this area is devoid of people between the age of 12 and 49. I'm picturing a town planner who wanted somewhere to bring his or her aged grandparents for a nice day picking out Australian-themed toiletries.

It's quiet tonight, just one other table when we arrive, they seem to be having fun and the welcome is a very friendly "Which table would you like?" The fire is simmering, the room warm despite the ample empty space. The table is simple as is the menu: four entrees, five mains plus a special – char-gilled bluefin tuna with spinach, caper and tomato – a few sides and some old fashioned desserts. There's a bargain to be had here if you come hungry: one course for $35, two courses for $50 and three for an unheard-of-in-Canberra-sixty bucks.

The wine list, too, is of not-substantial size. A bargain with most under $45 and some thought here: a simple yet satisfying Spanish tempranillo by the glass; a swag of pinots gris and grigio. Most are by the glass, even though that glass looks like the same goblet from that older brother's wedding circa 1985 at a place very much like this.

In essence the food is really quite good. Maybe dated – you won't get any hipsters out here beating down your door like so many zombies. Give it another 10 years when lemon meringue pies and amuse bouches come back in fashion like bogarts and desert boots. The little complimentary starter is a simple cauliflower broth, very faintly scented with truffle. It's gone in an instant but just enough to warm these old bones and ready the palate for what's next. The vegetarian entree, an arrangement of zucchini, basil and parmesan torta, with feta and tomato salad. It's a robust frittata-like arrangement, speaking loudly of summer and spring on this cold winter's night. Large by any scale, the torta is well sauced and colourful. By God it's colourful, sustaining yet somewhat lacking that intensity you'd get in the warmer months. A teaser, you could say.

Seared scallops with spinach, lime butter and crispy shoe-string potatoes are again amply proportioned, easily fulfilling, maybe with a little too many fries. It takes a few good minutes to get through them and see the pure white molluscs and that limey dressing. I like the texture the fries provide – they are quite devoid of oiliness but, as I say, there are a lot of them. Courabyra pinot gris versus La Vendetta pinot grigio ($8 and $9 respectively for a goblet) shows the different takes on two styles of the same variety. The local Tumbarumba is fuller, richer yet still has a nice acid line. The pinot grigio from Veneto, a long, long way away, is crisp as an apple, delicate and working with the scallops.

Our mains come out very promptly, both putting in perspective the largish starters. Great value. Lamb rump – the doyen of portion control on the function stage – here is fanned over ratatouille, eggplant puree and rosemary jus. This pink, splayed lamb rump is smothered with all these rich, sweet Mediterranean flavours. Whilst not being the most interesting cut, the vegetably intensity is pretty neat and the lamb is good enough. The tuna special is likewise: really well cooked, perfect and really well hit with the sauce stick. I can't say the combination doesn't work, just that it is overpowered somewhat by the sunny-climate sweet sauce of capers, onion and tomato.

Satisfying throughout – the lemon meringue pie to finish is fine, more a lemon butter than the creamier, zesty pie filling. Neat little dollops of whipped and toasted egg white. A berry compote oddly finishes off the dish and the night. Not necessarily the most happening, inspiring place in town but to all intents a great value, wholesome, friendly spot in the strange world that is the rotunda-rich Gold Creek precinct.