Vicinity

Vicinity wants to be all things to all people, all day, with its glam island bar, wrap-around alfresco deck and clubby music. The space is broken up by chain-mail drapes and multiple television screens, adding further visual stimulation. It's a bit like being in 10 places at once. From the on-view kitchen, chef Paul Pereira and his team turn out a mainly Med menu that runs from generous platters of prosciutto, parmesan and arancini to a share dish of slow-cooked lamb shoulder. Pan-seared chorizo with pickled apple and cider was a little oily and sharp, but a pretty compilation of roasted vine tomatoes with black garlic and whipped fetta is full of lovely, go-together flavours. A highlight is crisp-skinned twice-cooked pork belly with a crumble of morcilla and a shaved fennel and orange salad. Profiteroles are the big dessert order, but a Mad Men martini glass layered with chocolate mousse, white chocolate and strawberry sorbet makes a lighter finish.