Vincent

Like a duck to cassoulet, Woollahra and Paddo habitues have taken to this new French-style bistro from the savvy Wine Library crew. Tucked inside the revamped boutique Hughenden Hotel, it’s relaxed enough for you to dine at the hotel bar (where they’ll lay down some serious wine knowledge if you’re interested) or in two other crowded rooms, one overlooking Queen Street’s leafy Paris end. The usual list of bistro suspects gets some cheffy tweaks to keep things lively. The signature comte custard is surprisingly restrained, but a duck crepinette with rhubarb compote and mustard has full Parisian poise and great flavour. Spaetzle, venison and tender roast carrots is everything we’ve been waiting for - rare, gutsy, intense and something to unleash the carnivore within. Finish on a bombe glace for the full, retro Left Bank bistro effect.

And … Sample the interesting house-made cheeses, when available.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Local rumble and eastern suburbs Francophiles.
Best bit The excellent staff.
Worst bit Competing with street sounds streetside.