The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Vini

Vini Article Lead - narrow
Vini Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

Italian$$

Andrew Cibej doesn't host a TV reality show, or endorse pots and pans. He doesn't have a recipe book to spruik, and seems to prefer to cook in spaces smaller than a shoebox. But he's a star when it comes to understanding the elemental simplicity of good Italian food. Vini is his original Surry Hills cubby-hole bistro/bar, complete with a blackboard wall for the day's specials. The no-bookings policy at dinner means go early, or leave your phone number and adjourn for a glass of wine at Cibej's nearby 121 BC to wait for a table. It's worth returning, however, for the tender carpaccio di manzo with balsamic-dressed beetroot, a twisted cannelloni 'spirale' stuffed with juicy braised lamb, roast pumpkin and peas, or pan-fried mulloway with corn and salsa rossa. Panna cotta may be a cliche in this town, but when it's made with buttermilk and teamed with almonds and espresso caramel, it's easy to see why.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement