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Vini

Vini
ViniSupplied

14/20

Italian$$

The space might be classroom sized (with blackboards for walls), but school was never this much fun. Andrew Cibej has crafted a bustling little enoteca where the grape takes centre stage but where food is by no means an afterthought. Genuine respect for Italian tradition shines in dishes that are humble, spirited and sexy - much like Vini itself. Speck teamed with cavolo rosso and salsa verde is satisfyingly sharp, and a braised beef rotolo, all plump with mushroom, porcini and sage, prompts reveries of wood fires and cosy ski cabins in the Dolomites. Back in Surry Hills, though, the pastiera napoletana is one of the best ricotta cheesecakes in town. Something of a local institution are the Tuesday night regional dinners where a different region of The Boot is explored each week, from the seafood of Veneto to the peasant fare of Umbria. Extra kudos for service that is as personable as it is on point.

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