The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Vlado's

Vlado's Article Lead - narrow
Vlado's Article Lead - narrowSupplied

12/20

Steakhouse$$$

This place is beyond fashion. It operates in a parallel universe in which restaurants do one thing, but superbly. At Vlado's, that thing is steak. Nothing else matters, nothing else is especially good. But the steak - a dense, thick fillet, a slab of grass-fed rump, a doorstop of marbled porterhouse - is meat of exemplary quality cooked to perfection. The redoubtable Ivan Glavas has long been the late Vlado's grill-double, and the restaurant remains on the same track after the baron of beef's passing in May 2012. There is no real choice, apart from the cut, size and degree of doneness of the steak, which, though vast, is clearly not meat enough as each meal begins with a lively sausage and a jumble of seared meat shrapnel - slices of calves' liver, slivers of pork neck and more. Then steak - cooked with neither lubricant nor seasoning, served with house mustard or fiery horseradish. A salad of slaw, tomatoes and lettuce accompanies, and strawberry crepes finish. Strange, austere, quietly wonderful.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement