Water's Edge

First impressions of chef James Mussillon's restaurant are very encouraging. It's moodily lit, and staffed with friendly young chaps eager to please. The acoustics are also worth shouting about: hooray for dinner without the din! An entree of blue swimmer crab tortellini is bursting with freshness, set in a foamy sweet sea of caviar and shellfish, and spice-crusted, medium-rare kingfish is accompanied by darling herbs and a zingy salsa. As a main, lamb back-strap with prune-braised neck crepinette is well-seasoned, coming with a silky jus, punchy watercress and fennel salad and an artful splodge of carrot and ginger puree. Chargrilled beef fillet with braised brisket cigar is full of big, bold flavours, and served with a butter-poached beef tongue carpaccio. Dessert is lavish - a lemon myrtle brulee tart served with wattleseed praline and bitter chocolate sorbet.