West 48

Perch at the dark-lacquered bench in the front window and watch the heads turn. This backstreet gem has woken up sleepy Essex Street and is a welcome surprise to passers-by. Inside, charcoal walls enfold you while austere flower arrangements add Zen charm. Sandwiches might include a tumble of juicy smoked chicken chunks and crunchy walnuts in a creamy dressing, or big, bouncy prawns with aioli and piquant rocket. The barista rocks two blends, one for milk coffees and one for black - a grand excuse to order a second cup with a salted caramel tart from Dench or traditional Sicilian biscotti dotted with slivers of jewel-like glace fruit.