14/20
Seafood$$
On the site of the original 1860 Government Wharf, overlooking tidal flats, Wildfish has the ultimate setting for a seafood restaurant. The white-walled venue is minimally decorated (the view says it all) while the menu sails a tight course, offering just a few red meat dishes alongside the fruits of the sea (the kitchen takes pride in sourcing its daily catch). A short tapas list throws out a line to peckish diners. perhaps marinated baby octopus dusted in paprika on vermicelli noodles splashed with fish sauce. Entrees and mains are simple but heartfelt. There might be baked boarfish (duckfish), its fine white flesh and delicate flavour enhanced by seeded mustard and dill. Flake, prawns and a leek and saffron sauce are ensconced in ramparts of flaky pastry, teamed with steamed broccolini and halved cherry tomatoes. Desserts don't stint on flavour. panna cotta with lime shavings is circled by sharp balsamic blueberries and diced strawberries.
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