William Blue Dining

First things first. Rockpool it ain't. And that's more than OK. You can go to their new Bridge Street digs for that experience. And hey – when was the last time you could eat at this specific address for this little?

At this hospitality training school, set on Neil Perry's famous original Rockpool George Street site, you can get three courses for just $38. Those are '80s prices.

It's really nice to see the old site back to life and buzzing. And equally, it's full of fresh faces, both on the floor and in the kitchen.

There's a nice line on the William Blue Dining website that says, "Please remember this is a student training restaurant. You may like to allow a little extra time for a three-course meal." So I pack a sandwich, just in case.

Except everyone is really on their game – there is no waiting for food and service is incredibly attentive.

Oh sure, they lack a bit of confidence, but you have to remember these guys are trainees – it takes years to get the kind of swagger the best in the biz are known for.

(Though I do love the fact that one waitress insists repeatedly on calling me "lady". At least she doesn't preface it with "move it" or "you break it, you bought it".)

The beautiful bones of the restaurant still exist, for the most part. The seats are a little more lo-fi and yes, the Alessi pepper grinders are gone (and just a side note, they really were a case of "you break it, you bought it"), as is the Aesop handwash in those handsomely tiled loos.

But that amazing catwalk still exists, the open kitchen is still a hive of activity and the dishes they're putting out are really solid.

A choc of pork belly, nicely rendered, is accompanied by a sweet apple coleslaw and a spiced fennel puree. Maybe they could reconsider the rectangular slate plate it's served on but then, that goes for everyone, everywhere.

A Provencal-style dish of roast eggplant layered with roasted zucchini, lifted with a ricotta-amped tomato sauce is a light, fresh reminder of bikini season.

Sweet, gentle and wintery rice pudding with spiced, braised rhubarb and a sesame crisp is well executed and well thought out. In fact, that's probably the party line with this whole experience.

Get down and support Sydney's next generation of young chefs and waitstaff – it's a great initiative and even better, a great meal.       

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Go with patience on your side. It is a restaurant being run by apprentices and rookies
Try this We seriously toy with the idea of ordering an extra rice pudding to eat for breakfast the next day
Like this? The Apprentice at Pyrmont TAFE also offers a $35 set dinner menu. 731-695 Harris St, Ultimo. (02) 9217 5527