15/20

Yellow

57 Macleay Street, Potts Point, NSW

All Details
It's Bat Cave dark inside Yellow.
It's Bat Cave dark inside Yellow. Photo: Fiona Morris

Terry Durack

The real, enduring appeal of the French bistro is not that the tablecloth is checked, the steak comes with frites, and the mousse is chocolate, but that we all know what to expect. With recognition, comes comfort and security.

The ''Bentley Boys'' behind this alleged new bistro in Potts Point have clearly missed that memo. Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage don't do tablecloths; there are no frites, and nothing recognisable as chocolate mousse. Instead, their preferred business model seems to be to avoid the obvious. There is nothing at Yellow, for example, that is yellow.

Having rethought the idea of a wine bar at nearby Monopole, they've now become bistronomists, joining that contemporary Parisian movement of serving gastronomic dishes in a casual bistro setting. And by moving into Potts Point's historic Yellow House building, one-time home to the famed '70s artists' collective, they've cleverly given themselves room to grow.

Lamb tongues with endive, pickled green raisins and puffed black rice.
Lamb tongues with endive, pickled green raisins and puffed black rice. Photo: Edwina Pickles

Oldies not convinced about sharing all that small-plate stuff at Monopole will prefer Yellow's more structured menu. It may not be long, but it's diverse and interesting, with starters ranging from slow-cooked ocean trout with fennel and green almonds ($18) to a little bowl of crunchy, salty, imploded beef tendon crisps ($4). Braised, pressed, finely sliced, dehydrated, and finally deep-fried, they're definitely the new salt and vinegar chips for the well-heeled.

Savage has applied his usual ingredient-driven restlessness to come up with everything from organic chicken with black garlic and celtuce (celery lettuce), to a coconut sorbet with lime, mint and cucumber soup. Lamb tongues ($17) tickle my fancy; the sliced, brined-then-braised tongues resting on a little ravigote sauce, strewn with pickled raisins and sweet onion and tossed with a gravel pit of crisp, puffed black rice.

Zingy pickled mussels and clams come in a conga line, pimped with a shellfish liquor sauce and cubes of pickled zucchini, sliced zucchini and creamy zucchini puree ($16).

The wine list has a decidedly French accent, brokered by Hildebrandt into sections running from Hipster Whites to Soft, Juicy, Smashable Reds. Again, it's in the Bentley/Monopole mould, highlighting natural wines and focusing on newly fashionable grape varieties such as gamay, including a fleshy, intense 2011 Corcelette Morgon from Daniel Bouland ($58). "Old wines, young winemakers, low yields," says Hildebrandt, pouring. "Heaven."

It's a majorly good choice with the crisp-skinned lamb belly ($24), full of sweet fat lambiness, bolstered with a gutsy lamb jus, shaved celery, broad beans and a delicate potato and yoghurt cream. As light and clear as the lamb is dark and moody, softly steamed mulloway ($28) comes bathed in a gentle emulsion of fish stock and olive oil, topped with fine tendrils of pea sprouts. The absence of frites is a brave move, and one that turns the halved jacket potatoes topped with sour cream and chives ($10) into a popular side order.

Designer Pascale Gomes-McNabb has worked with what was left after the demise of the short-lived Brass restaurant, adding smoked mirrors, distressed wall textures, exposed brick and Arne Jacobsen chairs to create a fashionably worn space of bomb-shelter gloom. Former Bentley staff are still bedding down the service; food comes fast one night, slow the next.

And don't expect anything as bleeding obvious as tarte tatin. Instead, an ice-cream sandwich ($15) is a refined finger of lovely goatmilk yoghurt ice-cream in wafers of dehydrated pistachio cake, and tangy little riffs on orange and strawberries.

With its rich, unpredictable, almost whimsical food, Yellow is not the bistro as we know it. Which is absolutely fine, because whatever it is, it works a treat.

THE LOW-DOWN
Best bit:
Classy food, casual vibe
Worst bit:
It's Bat Cave dark
Go-to dish:
Lamb tongues with endive, pickled green raisins and puffed black rice $17

tdurack@fairfaxmedia.com.au

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57 Macleay Street, Potts Point, NSW

  • Cuisine - Contemporary
  • Prices - About $100 for two, plus drinks
  • Features - Licensed, Accepts bookings
  • Owners - Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage
  • Opening Hours - Dinner daily
  • Author - Terry Durack
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2 comments so far

  • Yellow has the potential to be a great restaurant, however they are more concerned in turning the tables over several times a night that the experience of dining out is lost. The service, the food and the atmosphere is compromised. While good (and expensive) is not great.

    Commenter
    linda
    Location
    Date and time
    November 24, 2013, 7:33PM
  • I feel Yellow ticked all the boxes for me last night. We were booked in for the 2nd seating at 8.30 which I always prefer as I don't like being rushed. We found the service to be excellent and all the waiting staff were very helpful and accommodating . Food was innovative but not over the top. The flavors were subtle and interesting. Our table opted for the degustation menu (5 courses). There were a few meals we wanted to swap for and this was no problem at all which was surprising as most restaurants would not allow this. At $70 per head, we thought this was very reasonable as we were served some of the best dishes on the menu and each one was special. Restaurant design was interesting and in keeping with the concept of Yellow. I was nearly put off booking as I read a review that said it was a bat cave, but I really didn't feel it was dark, rather moody but I didn't find this annoying at all. I couldn't fault Yellow, and I would definitely recommend it. Special mention has to made about the bread and butter made on site. I would have been happy to eat that all night!

    Commenter
    JoJoK
    Location
    Sydney
    Date and time
    January 11, 2014, 8:07AM

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