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Yu-u

Yu-u Japanese restaurant, Flinders Lane, Melbourne.
Yu-u Japanese restaurant, Flinders Lane, Melbourne.Peter SCHOFIELD

Good Food hat15/20

Japanese$$

Push through the nondescript laneway door and down broad timber stairs to a spacious basement restaurant that exudes cool and calm. With jazz in the background, gentle lighting, noise levels that barely rise above a murmur and a simple Japanesque fitout of concrete, timber and flashes of midnight blue, Yu-u feels uniquely romantic. Sit at the intimate bar or a communal table and await the well-paced procession of elegantly proportioned share dishes. Verdant broccoli florets come blanketed in a deeply addictive, orange-speckled cod roe mayonnaise; charry calamari and asparagus retain a beautiful crunch; plump prawn dumplings arrive wrapped in a delicate wrinkly skin; and sashimi mackerel topped with shredded ginger makes a noteworthy departure from the usual tuna-salmon double act. Contemplating dessert? As the green-tea ice-cream is no mind-blower, opt instead for skewers from the grill - chicken thigh, breast or even liver. Service is attentive. water is replenished, plates changed and sake poured, adding to the polished experience that is Yu-u.

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