Yu-u

In a jazz-filled basement beneath Flinders Lane, a black-uniformed, bandana-wearing yakitori chef fans the smoky charcoal grill as tiny skewers of wagyu beef sizzle towards perfection. Diners surround him, seated side-by-side at a sleek, U-shaped polished-wood bar, attended by discreet, gracious hosts. All have descended anonymous stairs behind an anonymous door to savour this coolly stylish room, the calm hospitality, the pristine sashimi and the precise cooking, from grilled kingfish head that will have you delving into every crevice for the sweet, salty collar flesh, to a salad of milky white pork slices alternated with cool, fresh tomato and drizzled with sesame dressing. From behind the curtained kitchen more soulful dishes emerge: chunks of duck breast and eggplant with miso and a trace of garlic, fishcakes in a casing of tempura, cold noodles with a perky dipping sauce, pert prawn dumplings. A glass of plum and yuzu wine on the rocks complements black sesame ice-cream – as simple and elegant as Yu-u itself.

And … Yearning for soba? Advance order and the cold buckwheat noodles will be made the morning of your visit.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe If 007 walked in, would you be surprised?
Best bit It’s another world.
Worst bit Wall-facing chairs at the two tables for four to six.