Zaatar

This family-run venture, a bright spot in an otherwise drab stretch of Sydney Road, beckons passersby with spicy come-hither scents. The open layout features smart Moroccan-style tiles, contemporary furniture and cabinets stacked with the star attractions: Middle Eastern baked goods. Toasted haloumi ‘zocaccia’, with zaatar rounds standing in for focaccia, has lots of chew, and green olives lend a salty punch. Mezza - a changing array of dips, salads, falafels and pastries such as cheese triangles - is an inexpensive menu sampler, topping out at $13.50 for a little of everything. Syrup-dripping sweets plug any remaining gaps.