Zahli

Think of Middle Eastern fare and what comes to mind? For many Sydneysiders, it's most likely a plate of rustic, warmly seasoned flavours such as hummus, tabouli and a felafel or two. Traditional Lebanese food that's reliably good if a little predictable. For a quick feed or somewhere to satisfy the family, it's a fine choice, but in terms of destination dining, the city offers few places to get excited about.

Restaurateur Mohammad Issmail wanted to bring new blood to the scene with Zahli, which opened in August. It's his first Sydney venture but Issmail is no novice to the industry, bringing international experience from his time setting up and running restaurants in Lebanon and Dubai.

Though the location near Central Station is a vast distance from the restaurant's namesake – a scenic dining district along the Bardouni River in Lebanon – the venue still conveys an understated Middle Eastern charm and, with its richly detailed interior, is also one of the best-looking Lebanese places in town.

Designed by local studio Quattro Interiors, the space includes a marble bar, plush furnishing, ornate tiles and a grand entrance, but simple touches such as bentwood chairs mean it's not too posh for a low-key, pre-theatre meal or family gathering.

Head chef Abdul Shams has also put in stints in Dubai – at the Bedouin-style Amaseena at the Ritz-Carlton and Al Tannour at the Crowne Plaza – and his experience shows in his versatile menu, which covers traditional, vegetarian and child-friendly dishes.

The obligatory banquet options cater for large groups while a handful of imaginative dishes such as spiced barramundi show off Shams' creative potential while retaining a Middle Eastern essence.

Mercifully there's a range of mixed dishes for the indecisive among us. Our table starts with a classic trio of dips: hummus, labneh and baba ghanoush. Three fetching little bowls are attacked in moments, with a whispered tussle quickly developing over the tangy labneh and silky, oh-so-smoky eggplant dip.

The ladies' fingers are the pick of the hot mezza, a plate of mixed golden pastries and heavy meaty parcels. Bite-sized rolls of hot salty feta ooze through layers of ultra-thin crust. Pity we didn't order a whole plate.

It's hard to settle on a favourite from the mixed grill: three stabs of skewered chicken breast, minced lamb and lamb pieces all beautifully marinated and charred over the grill. The chicken has an almost milky sweetness while the lamb has a soft fragrant spiciness. A dab of the pungent garlic sauce delivers a heady potency.

A glazed pile of grilled octopus on a simple salad packs plenty of charry, crunchy goodness but it's the whiting that stops the show. The sculpture-like arrangement of whole fried fish towers over a ramekin of tahini sauce elicits oohs and aahs around the table. After a few tentative prods, our forks dive in to discover flaky flesh beneath golden crispy skin. "It's like seafood crackling," my companion says.

We make moves to depart but our waiter, who has warmed up after a reserved welcome, waves aloft the sweets menu. The deliciously stretchy mastic ice-cream comes in half a dozen grown-up flavours such as Turkish delight, sweet sesame and fig jam and walnut. We attempt a feeble protest – then order the lot.

Silence descends as we scoff from each bowl.

"Any guilt?" the waiter asks. Not a jot, we reply.

THE LOW-DOWN
THE PICKS Baba ghanoush, ladies' fingers, mixed grill, whiting
DRINKS Classic cocktails, mocktails, local wines, spirits and beers
THE LOOK Middle East meets modern bistro
THE SERVICE Quick and informative