Zanzibar Cafe

Merimbula's culinary standing went up a notch when Tetsuya-trained Huw Jones won the town's first chef's hat. The ensuing spike in business saw him call in brother Gus, former pastry chef at Quay, so now the place is really rocking. The informed service, led by Huw's partner, Renee Loftus, remains smooth throughout. Compact chunks of pork belly, with fat well rendered and crackling crisp, are teamed with crisp apple, silky cauliflower puree and house-made black pudding. Glassy slices of seared local tuna come over all Mediterranean with confit fennel, olives and lemon chips. That same tuna - as cured mojama - adorns a thick blue-eye trevalla fillet with baby marinated heirloom tomatoes, while roasted duck breast and confit leg take an oriental turn with fragrant mushroom consomme and chestnuts. A heavenly multi-layered opera-cake affair, including crisp milk and dark chocolate discs, mousse, brownie and more, reminds us that with pedigrees like the Jones', it hardly matters there's no water view.