Zen Japanese Restaurant

From the endearingly giggly service to the tea-light-lit tables and palate tickler of silky potato with mayo, Zen's little shopfront is a charmer. So too is the five-plus course Tume set for $29.95; you'll get golden veg tempura, tatsuta-age (marinated fried chicken), then teriyaki chicken or salmon (on sizzling vegetable-laden platters); next, black sesame-speckled rice, crisp shredded cabbage salad in nutty sesame dressing, miso soup and- phew- a scoop of ice-cream, maybe green tea. Eating lighter? Six great little gyoza, and eight pieces of sushi (including tuna, eel, salmon and prawn) won't bust the budget. Wines by the glass (like '08 Paringa chardonnay, $7) are even poured at the table.