Zest (Nelson Bay)

It might be located in the main street of a coastal town just a few hundred metres from the sea, but Zest's menu includes surprisingly little seafood. Instead it reveals chef Glenn Thompson's carnivorous leanings. Duck, pork, rabbit, venison, lamb and wagyu dominate the French-influenced list. Shredded duck and foie gras ballotine with scattered olives, cornichons and croutons has great texture and balance, while seared scallops are compatibly teamed with cured pork jowl, asparagus, grapes and apple. Venison loin served with a rustic venison sausage, licorice and onion puree and roasted beetroot is rich and flavoursome, but crisp-skinned pork belly was a little on the dry side, matched with soft, pillowy pumpkin gnocchi, a handful of girolles and a drizzle of ginger-infused veloute. Desserts are almost worth the two-and-half hour drive from Sydney. Chocolate and hazelnut delice with 'popcorn' ice-cream and salted caramel sauce is delightfully salty-sweet.