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Summer dining with Terry Durack: Mexicano

Terry Durack
Terry Durack

Making their own tortillas .... Mexicano.
Making their own tortillas .... Mexicano.Supplied

Mexicano

IT'S a sombrero-free zone at this buzzy, busy beachside diner, where noisy blenders whiz up frozen margaritas, and endless platters of guacamole and corn chips are ferried out to the blond, post-surfing crowd. Mexicano rewrites the rule book by looking more like a cool beach house than a hacienda, with its bare walls, communal tables and high benches with seriously high (as in, climb on board) stools.

Start with a tangy ceviche in a glass, with seriously good Spencer Gulf prawns and corn chips; chicken winglets that have been salt-brined, then crisp-fried; and a refreshingly light pickled beetroot salad with goat's cheese and candied walnuts. It's quite extraordinary how well something such as a corn tortilla taco filled with Yucatan-style pork shoulder and pickled red onion goes with another jalapeno margarita. If you can't go to the beach without having ice-cream, try the classy ice-cream sandwich with a melting heart of honeycomb.

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide says: "Chef Sean Prenter makes Mexican food shine, going the extra yard by making his own tortillas for the soft-shell tacos, miraculously both soft and crisp, filled with juicy pulled beef brisket and grilled onions."

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This summer's hot order: Grilled corn with chipotle mayo, salty cheese, smoked spice and lime, $6.

Shop 2, 209 Ocean Street, Narrabeen. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday, about $50 for two, plus drinks. Phone 9970 8975, see mexicano.com.au.

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Terry DurackTerry Durack is the chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald and Good Food.

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