Serge Dansereau's kitchen plays with colours, flavours and textures like a kid with a beach ball.
Serge Dansereau's kitchen plays with colours, flavours and textures like a kid with a beach ball. Photo: Sasha Woolley

IS THERE a better way to spend a summer lunchtime than toying with a glass of something cold and sparkling while drinking in the sparkling views across Middle Harbour to the Heads?

Serge Dansereau's kitchen plays with colours, flavours and textures like a kid with a beach ball: Seared Spanish mackerel gets the star treatment with a supporting cast of asparagus, spiced crab cream and salted egg yolk; free-range chicken with sea urchin butter is haute surf'n'turf, while crisp-skin barramundi is teamed with smoked sweet corn, bitter chocolate and popcorn cream.

The cafe side of the business is the go for beachside breakfasts of blueberry pancakes and coffee, and summery meals of asparagus with Ortiz anchovies, poached egg and cos lettuce, or Calabrian sausage pizza with roast cherry tomatoes, olive oil and rocket.

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide says: "Since arriving 14 years ago at this restored 1920s pavilion, Serge Dansereau has maintained his ethos — let the best produce shine on the plate."

This summer's hot order: Kingfish ceviche, with golden beetroot salad, horseradish yoghurt and herb oil, $26.

4 The Esplanade, Balmoral.

Breakfast (cafe only), lunch and dinner daily, about $200 for two, plus wine (restaurant). About $80 for two, plus wine (cafe). Phone 9969 5050, see batherspavilion.com.au.