GAZI
2 Exhibition Street, Melbourne, 9677 9677
It's farewell high-flying Press Club, and yassas vibey streetwise Greek taverna Gazi. But late-night souvlaki has never been this good, with charry flatbread swaddling beef brisket, soft-shell crab or confit duck – and chips.
The Age restaurant reviewer Larissa Dubecki says: "The post-GFC response to Press Club, George Calombaris' latest offering is fun and grounded, a little bit wrong and plenty of right."
The low down
The best bit: Fun dining
The worst bit: The dirty-bend-over-street-food oversell
Go-to dish: Any souvlaki
Wine list: Evenly split between Greek and Australian, with a side order of ouzo
The full review: Gazi
THE TOWN MOUSE
312 Drummond Street, Carlton, 9347 3312
Town Mouse sums up the modern conundrum. It looks like a bar, it feels like a bar, and it certainly sounds like a bar – but the food? The food is destination dining: share-friendly (of course) but about as city-elegant as it gets.
The Age restaurant reviewer Larissa Dubecki says: "It's Melbourne's year of the wine bar with great food. The Town Mouse slips comfortably into the script with food that has a sense of adventure while remaining wonderfully free of the chef trying to show everything he can do on the one plate."
The low down
The best bit: Style galore
The worst bit: Mosh-pit noise levels
Go-to dish: Smoked barramundi, celeriac, lemon verbena, matcha and lime, $36
Wine list: A lovely list of Australian and New Zealand boutiques, and lesser-known European varietals
The full review: The Town Mouse
The Age Good Food Guide 2014 will be available for $10 with The Saturday Age on August 31, from participating newsagents, Coles, Woolworths and 7Eleven stores, while stocks last. It will also be available in bookshops and online at theageshop.com.au for $24.99 from Tuesday, August 27.
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