Extracted from <i>Where Chefs Eat</i>, published by Phaidon, rrp $24.95.

Sydney chefs

Tetsuya Wakuda - Tetsuya's, Sydney

Regular Neighbourhood: Azuma, Chifley Square, Sydney
Breakfast: Café Morso, Pyrmont, Sydney
Wish I’d Opened: Flower Drum, Market Lane, Melbourne
Local Favourite: Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Bondi Beach, Sydney
Worth the travel: Kikunoi, Kyoto, Japan
Worth the travel: Kodaiji Wakuden, Kyoto, Japan
High end: Kyoto Kitcho, Kyoto, Japan
Bargain: Marigold, George St, Sydney
Worth the travel: Miyamasou, Kyoto, Japan
Worth the travel: Ogata, California, US
Worth the travel: Palate, Coles Bay, Tasmania
Local favourite: Pilu at Freshwater, Sydney
High end: Ristorante Buon Ricordo, Paddington, Sydney
High end: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney CBD

Peter Gilmore - Quay, Sydney

Breakfast: Armchair Collective, Monavale, Sydney
Worth the travel: Attica, Ripponlea, Melbourne
Worth the travel: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York, US
Wish I’d Opened: Bras, Laguiole, France
Late Night: Golden Century Seafood, Haymarket, Sydney
Late Night: Mamak, Haymarket, Sydney
High End: Marque, Surry Hills, Sydney
Wish I’d Opened: Mugaritz, Gipuzkoa, Spain
High end: Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney CBD
Bargain: Sailors Thai Canteen, The Rocks, Sydney
Breakfast: Tastebuds, Terrey Hills, Sydney

Melbourne chefs

Ben Shewry - Attica, Melbourne

Wish I’d Opened: Coi, San Francisco, US
Wish I’d Opened: Flower Drum, Market Lane, Melbourne
Regular Neighbourhood: Golden Fields, St Kilda, Melbourne
Worth the Travel: Jacques Reymond, Prahran, Melbourne
High end: Marque, Surry Hills, Sydney
Worth the travel: Momofuku Seiobo, Pyrmont, Sydney
Worth the travel: Nahm Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand
Wish I’d Opened:  Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark
Wish I’d Opened:  Quay, The Rocks, Sydney
Worth the travel:  Royal Mail, Dunkeld, Victoria
Bargain: Shanghai Village, Little Bourke St, Melbourne
High end: Vue de Monde, Collins St, Melbourne

Andrew McConnell - Cutler & Co, Melbourne

Worth the travel: Attica, Ripponlea, Melbourne
Worth the travel: Le Chateaubriand, Paris, France
Breakfast: Duchess of Spotswood, Spotwood, Melbourne
Late night: Embassy Taxi Café, West Melbourne
Bargain: I Love Pho, Richmond, Melbourne
Worth the travel: Momofuku Seiobo, Pyrmont, Sydney
Wish I’d opened: Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark

An edited extract from Where Chefs Eat, published by Phaedon, RRP $24.95.