A foodies' guide to Adelaide's Peel-Leigh street precinct

Adelaide has finally discovered its laneways and side streets, and what a transformation it's made to sleepy little Leigh Street and neigbouring Peel Street, smack in the heart of the city.

Two things have made it possible: the conversion of Leigh Street to a traffic-free al fresco dining area, with beautifully restored buildings and fashionable new bars; and the state government's new small bar licence, which has fast-tracked licensing for bars with a capacity of under 120 people and made the process much, much cheaper.

The result has been a bonanza for diners, drinkers and developers, creating a new social centre of gravity for the city with a rash of new bars, cafes and restaurants adding to a list of sometimes quirky little businesses that have been there for years.

It has been almost inexplicable that Adelaide, which should be able to claim the title of wine capital of Australia, has had so few dedicated wine bars. Now there are around nine either already open or planned for this freshly revived precinct, with a proposed walkway linking the two streets to add another dash of life and vibrancy.

Here's where you can start the day… and end it, with a few diversions in between:

Heart starter

It's not that there aren't plenty of choices in the neighbourhood but Coffee Branch, as narrow as a skinny latte and twice as fashionable, stands apart with its hand-sorted single origin Yirgzero beans from Ethiopia, Synesso Cyncra espresso machine, light, fluffy zeppole as well as toasties and friendly staff. Open from 7am.

Coffee Branch, 32 Leigh Street, City, 0451 661 980

Lunch central

The conversion of Leigh Street to a traffic-free al fresco dining precinct has enabled the ever popular Rigoni's to spread its white-clad tables and bentwood chairs onto the pavement in true Italian style. Now in its 35th year, it still has the freshest, crispest calamari, a fine array of antipasti and great traditional dishes, but always look first at the specials board. With one of the most pleasant courtyard dining areas in the city, Cos takes full advantage of its location in the city's first traffic-free “laneway” dining destination with perfect al fresco fare from a range of excellent oyster dishes to being one of the city's safest refuges for anyone in need of a fine steak.

Rigoni's Bistro, 27 Leigh Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 5160
Cos, 18 Leigh Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 7611

Flavour sensation

One of the most keenly awaited openings on Peel Street was the restaurant of the same name, run by the extraordinarily talented chef chef Jordan Theodorous with his business partner Ben McLeod. Theodorous, who has headed up some incredibly delicious restaurants, the most recent being Aquacaf at the coastal town of Goolwa, has seen Peel Street packed since day one with people loving his full-flavonoid, gutsy, simple style of cooking – it looks casual, just like the atmosphere at Peel Street, but food that tastes this good doesn't come easily. Just as delicious at breakfast, lunch or dinner – and do try the mulloway fish pasty.

Peel Street, 9 Peel Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 8887

Time for a drink

Although the new legislation had been on the horizon for the best part of a year, some wine bars couldn't wait and jumped in regardless of the cost. First and most notable among them was Udaberri, which means “spring” in the Basque language, and indeed this has been the start of new beginnings for Adelaide. Expect traditional Basque-style pintxos such as croquetas de bacalao, bocadillos and fabulous aged hams, and a wine list focused on Spanish and Portuguese wines. Just around the corner in Peel Street, The Clever Little Tailor has a small, fast-revolving wine list that embodies the partners' small bar philosophy, while an arrangement with Central Market providore Lucia's takes care of the bar snacks. And for a full-on multicultural blast head to Casablabla, where inspiration from Morocco, Turkey, Bali and Cambodia drives two bars and an outdoor courtyard, with live music and a very individual range of tapas and pizza.

Udaberri, 11-13 Leigh Street, Adelaide, (08) 8410 5733
Clever Little Tailor, 19 Peel Street, Adelaide, 0407 111 857
Casablabla, 12 Leigh Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 3939

Serious diversions

There's nothing like a plate of tapas, perhaps with a glass of delicious sherry, or perhaps some crab linguine and a bottle of chianti to start dreams of travel to faraway places. Head straight to The Map Shop, the biggest and best in Australia, to find out where you want to go. You'll find everything from maps of downtown Kabul to hiking in Italy's Cinque Terre. Then go to Leigh Street Luggage for Adelaide's best choice of suitcases, a little very light reading from The Comics Shop – and, for the chaps, a quick tidy up from Alex Mastrannelo, the Figaro of Leigh Street.

The Map Shop, 6-10 Peel Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 2033
Leigh Street Luggage, 22a Leigh Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 9616
The Comics Shop, 18 Peel Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 2566
Alec's Hairdressers, 24 Peel Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 2009

Around the corner and not so far away

Anster Street is a tiny alleyway off Waymouth Street, a short walk from the Leigh-Peel street precinct, that's recently gained two great new bars. Proof is a classic classic cocktail / wine bar, long and skinny, on three levels including a rooftop. Marble benchtops and a sheet copper ceiling says money has been spent here, while the very attractive wine list ensures even more money will change hands. Great toasties. Across the road there's another upstairs bar, The Gallery, with the best rooftop view in town and a full restaurant menu. The fun continues around the corner in Waymouth Street, where Proof's owners also have Press Food & Wine, with chef Andrew Davies running a sophisticated nose to tail menu partnered by a terrific wine list, and Melt CBD next door for ultra-smart tapas and pizza. The Editor Dessert and Wine Bar a few doors along combines a wine bar with dessert lounge for later on.

Proof, 9a Anster Street, Adelaide, (08) 8212 0708
Press Food & Wine, 40 Waymouth Street, Adelaide, (08) 8211 8048
Melt CBD, 38 Waymouth Street, Adelaide, (08) 211 6723
The Gallery on Waymouth, 30 Waymouth Street, Adelaide, (08) 8211 8820
The Editor Dessert and Wine Bar, 2/24 Waymouth Street, Adelaide, (08) 8212 4160

The joker at the end of the street

On the footpath in Hindley Street, between Leigh and Peel streets, is a life-size brass statue of Roy “Mo” Rene, one of Australia's best-loved comedians who began his career nearby and died in 1954. His contribution to the culinary scene is unusual but notable as he coined the phrases “Don't come the raw prawn with me” and “Fair suck of the sav”.