Ben Devlin moves on from Brisbane's Esquire

Ben Devlin, Esquire's co-head chef with owner Ryan Squires, has left the highly regarded restaurant with plans of opening his own venue.

Devlin has been behind the burners with Squires since the Brisbane riverside restaurant opened in 2011. The following year Esquire was awarded three hats by the Brisbane Times Good Food Guide, an accolade it has maintained ever since. This year Devlin was awarded the Brisbane Good Food Guide young chef of the year title.

"Ben has done a wonderful job in helping to create Esquire as it is today," Squires said. "He's still going to do some occasional work here, but he's heading in a different direction and I wish him the best. There are no hard feelings and we are still friends."

Devlin says it was "difficult" to leave Esquire.

"I've put a lot of myself into it and it's a sad thing to leave, but it was necessary to get myself moving forward," he says.

Devlin has been working for the past year on his "concept bakery" pop-up events. His Beerkary Bakery produces artisan bread made from hops and beer and matched with different craft beer, brewed especially to match the bread.

Beerkary is part of the new venue he's planning.

"I've taken some time to narrow down what it is we wanted to do and it's still evolving and we're looking for a location." he says.

"The idea is for a space that's essentially a bakery from early to the afternoon, with a cafe attached and a bar and restaurant with one central kitchen."

Stepping into Devlin's role at Esquire is Brendan Gradidge, currently sous chef at Bentley Restaurant and Bar in Sydney. Gradidge has worked at The Woods, Gastro Park and Brisbane's own Urbane.

"I got talking to Ryan one day and heard Ben was leaving and one thing lead to another. I couldn't say no to an opportunity like this," Gradidge says.

Gradidge will be in the Esquire kitchen from January.