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Craft distillery Archie Rose to open in Rosebery

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Partners in spirits: from left, Dave Withers, Will Edwards, Joe Dinsmoor, Nigel Weisbaum of Archie Rose distillery.
Partners in spirits: from left, Dave Withers, Will Edwards, Joe Dinsmoor, Nigel Weisbaum of Archie Rose distillery. Nikki To

It's been a long time between drinks for central Sydney distilleries.

When Archie Rose swings open its doors in Rosebery next month, its owners believe it'll be the first new commercial distillery in the City of Sydney in more than 160 years.

"The last one we could find records for was 1853," says Archie Rose co-owner Will Edwards.

Opening in a warehouse next to Rosebery's new wave food venues Da Mario and Kitchen by Mike, the craft distillery will feature its own eat-in bar. Edwards argues Sydney is ripe for the return of distilleries:

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"You've only got to look at boom in the local bar scene. Customerswant to know where their alcohol comes from."

So why has it taken so long for the rebirth? Edwards maintains oppressive legislation toward smaller-scale distilleries – aimed at keeping 'moonshiners' out of the game – contributed to the collapse of inner-city distillers.

Buoyed by the resurgence of distilleries in Tasmania and the United States in recent years, Archie Rose will produce gin, vodka and whisky.

We'll be maturing it from three-and-a-half to seven years, but we're not sure exactly how the local humidity will impact [on the process]," he says.

Despite the high entry costs (Edwards puts start-up costs in the $5 million-plus "ballpark") he expects a US-style boom where the number of craft distilleries,often with a restaurant attached, have quickly grown from the "hundreds to thousands".

It is believed new operators are already planning start-ups in Canberra and Northern NSW.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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