Scott Bolles

Short BlackAlpha restaurant in The cityChef Peter ConistisSmh good livingPhotos Ben RushtonJuly 8 2013
Maternal: Peter Conistis. Photo: Ben Rushton

After more delays than a venue for the Athens Olympics, the Peter Conistis-fronted, Hellenic Club-owned Alpha Restaurant will finally open its doors this Thursday.

The mega venue, at 238 Castlereagh Street, is Greek on steroids, with an artisan food emporium, cantina, meze bar, cafe and restaurant rolled into one - and word is that Conistis will also open a fine-dining restaurant upstairs if the initial stage is a success.

Good Food critic Terry Durack and a select posse of readers test-drove Alpha at one of our Good Food's ''Opening Night'' events last week.

''Conistis can't help himself; he feeds you like he's a Greek mother,'' Durack says.

''Highlights were the lamb shoulder, mushroom and olive pie: spit-roasted pork with lemon and oregano; wagyu beef soutzoukakia meatballs and, of course, Peter's famous scallop and taramasalata moussaka, which made a return appearance 20 years after it first [appeared] at Cosmos in Darlinghurst.''