History book

The recently released From Suet to Saffron, by historian Fiona Bligh, documents the changes in our culture, as charted by the Presbyterian Women’s Mission Union cookbooks, which have been in print since 1904. The book has the distinction of being the longest-running cookbook series in the country, and Bligh was fascinated and encouraged by what she found over the 18 months it took her to write its history.

"The PWMU books were always open to other cultures' food," she says. While the first few editions covered mostly British cooking, Indian recipes were included. By the 1970s, up to 29 countries' cuisines featured in the book. "The women who put the recipe books together were unafraid of change," Bligh says.

Her book does feature recipes, but ultimately it is an important insight into Australian culture - through the kitchen.

From Suet to Saffron: The History of the PMWU Cookbook in Victoria 1904-2012 (Fairfield Press) is $19.95 and available at PWMU.org.au.