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Homage launches with a paddock-to-plate philosophy

Natascha Mirosch

Head chef of Homage, Ash Martin.
Head chef of Homage, Ash Martin.John Reyment

A Queensland restaurant is taking the "paddock-to-plate" ethos literally, featuring their own beef cattle on the menu.

The grass-fed herd graze in the lush paddocks at the 480-hectare Hidden Vale property at Grandchester, west of Ipswich.

Head chef at Homage restaurant at Spicer's Hidden Vale, Ash Martin has been in the job for 18 months, after moving over from another Spicer's property, Spicers Peak at Maryvale. He relaunched Hidden Vale's former restaurant Cotton's as Homage in October.

Homage chef Ash Martin's Millmerran pork collar, celeriac, belly croquette, crackle and pumpkin emulsion.
Homage chef Ash Martin's Millmerran pork collar, celeriac, belly croquette, crackle and pumpkin emulsion.John Reyment
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"I wanted to create dishes that show respect for the land, the produce and the farmers – that's how the name Homage came about, paying homage to each of those things," Martin says.

The yearling from the station is being used on Homage's tasting menu, and, Martin says, is receiving "great feedback".

"I like that I know how it's been raised, we're working towards using the whole beast," he says.

He's also established an 89-bed market garden and the famously fertile soil has been generous.

"Within weeks had a huge amount of produce, far more than expected. Everything seems to be growing so quickly but the tomatoes, pumpkin, corn, watermelon and zucchini are giving the most. The wallabies have taken a liking to our beans and sugar snaps which is a challenge."

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The produce that doesn't come from the property is sourced from very close by, with Martin establishing close relationships with local farmers.

"I was quite stubborn about not launching Homage until I was satisfied that I understood the area and had uncovered as many hidden gems as possible – you can't rush these things," he says.

Martin collects freshwater cray and Murray cod from a farm just a few kilometres away and uses local pork, goat and goat's cheese, olive oil and foraged wild lemons on his menu. He also says he's excited about a farmer who's starting to grow the notoriously hard to source squab (baby pigeon).

"I like to know the farmer and their processes, making sure we support those who use humane, organic where possible and sustainable techniques. The role of the kitchen team then is to bring out the best techniques to make it the best it can be on the plate, and allowing the story behind it to be told," he says.

Homage, 617 Grandchester Mount Mort Road, Grandchester, 1300 179 340, open for lunch Wed-Sun from 12pm and dinner Mon-Sun from 6pm.

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