Hotfood: Quinces

What is it?

That strange, large, knobbly yellow fruit that appears on trees and in greengrocers from March to June, and which, as the Oxford English Dictionary reminds us, is ''hard-fleshed and astringent when raw, but aromatic and deep orange in colour when cooked''.

Where is it?

At TarraWarra in the Yarra Valley, chef Robin Sutcliffe serves an entree of air-dried beef with poached local quinces, watercress, gorgonzola and garlic croutons in a mustardy vinaigrette. ''You can't compare quince to anything else,'' he says. ''The aroma, the texture and the flavour are unique.'' For Emma D'Alessandro, co-chef with Adam Draper at Donovans in St Kilda, quinces are inspirational. ''I'm a sucker for old-school fruits,'' she says. On the menu is a stunning tarte tatin of quinces poached in red wine, chestnut cream and chocolate puff pastry, which D'Alessandro says is best enjoyed by the open fire. At Gazi, where George Calombaris promises ''messy Greek street food'', the duck souvlaki with quince is flying out the door, and at Northcote's Estelle Bar & Kitchen, chef Scott Pickett serves quince with pain d'epice, orange gel, lemon balm and earl grey-infused cream. ''One reason that many Australians are scared of quinces is that they just don't know how to cook them properly,'' Pickett says. ''The longer and slower the better. Too fast and they fall apart and their natural colour doesn't really blossom.'' Pickett suggests slicing and glazing the fruit to serve with game birds at this time of year, or making quince tarte tatin, souffle, or upside-down cakes and puddings.

Why do I care?

Because it's one of the great pleasures of the cooler months. And because it's brilliant added to the morning porridge or served with an after-dinner cheese platter.

Can I do it at home?

Yes. Cook them on a weekend when there's more time for low and slow cooking.

TRENDING

Peanut butter and jelly (jam). Dagwood's favourite sandwich is being reinvented as dessert, as muffin, and at MoVida Bakery, South Yarra, as sugar-coated peanut butter and jelly doughnuts.

Spiced quinces

Cook until a skewer moves easily through the flesh, yet the fruit still holds it shape.

4 medium yellow quinces

500g brown sugar

2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half

1 vanilla bean, split

2 star anise

1 tsp peppercorns

1. Heat the oven to 120 degrees. Rub the skins to remove any down. Trim off the ends of the quinces and discard. Cut the fruit in half lengthways, cut each half into three wedges, and peel. Place both quinces and peel (it helps the colour) in a heatproof, lidded baking dish with the sugar, cinnamon sticks, vanilla bean, star anise, peppercorns and 1.2 litres of water. Bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves, then cover tightly and bake for six hours, without turning or moving the fruit.

Sourcing

Gazi, 2 Exhibition Street, Melbourne, 9207 7444.

Estelle Bar & Kitchen, 243 High Street, Northcote, 9489 4609.

TarraWarra Estate & Restaurant, 311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Road, Yarra Glen, 5957 3504.

Donovans, 40 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, 9534 8221.

Remove and allow to cool, then gently remove the quince. Cut out and discard the core and seeds. Strain the juices and return to the quinces. Serve with cream, ice-cream or custard.

Serves 4