The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

How to make steak tartare

Bryan Martin

Steak tartare and accompanying ingredients.
Steak tartare and accompanying ingredients.David Reist

I guess you are all still waiting for my all-important reply to the federal budget? I can sense it – the airways have been thick with analysis and now it’s my turn. What was that about retiring? Now I have to wait another couple of years before I can board that cruise ship that floats down the Danube for all the world looking like a cattle truck? Or more likely join the road train north with thousands of other now really old grey nomads?

It’s an interesting place to be, at the tail end of the rampaging baby boomer train. Ploughing its way through the years like an out of control, driverless juggernaut. And there’s me, clinging on to the rail of the caboose, wanting to let go but unable to, knowing full well it isn’t going to be pretty. You really do feel sorry for the next generations who are going to have to clean up and pay for this huge party.

I’m sure it has been said before but the generations following the baby boomers, once they get in power, are going to get us back big time. Bank on it. "We're sorry, all that money you squirrelled away, well that was actually ours!"

On the topic of the carrot that is retirement, I guess I haven’t ever thought it would be something I’d be prepared for. Certainly superannuation-wise, that bucket of temptation for future governments, my humble thimble isn’t going to do more than one slap-up weekend.

Advertisement

Remember we are the generation that brought bottled water to the market. Is there anything more ridiculous than that? What’s next – "bagged air”? I can picture future History Channel presenters trying to explain why we felt the need to unnecessarily trade in bottled water when the taps were full of it.

There is something about budget time that makes you tighten the belt and gird your loins for lean times ahead. Well, a Liberal Budget for sure, in particularly if you are young or in need. Labor budgets, in comparison, are like ice-cream and lollypops, sah-weeet.

Even though I can’t find much else that affects me than this retirement issue, I am in the market for less extravagant foods and lifestyle choices in the wake of Budget 2014. For starters, no more rinsing after brushing in Kona Nigari desalinated sea water at 400 bucks a glass before getting dressed in my Kiton K-5 suit – what can you possibly do in a $50,000 suit that you can’t in stubbies and a singlet? Again you get my point, we really had access to too much money. In a world where you can elect to have individualised number plates printed on a checker plate for your car, well you have too much money and really need to be reined in and this gun-toting, cigar smoking treasurer is just the man.

I'm trying to find those cheap cuts like we used to have; brisket, lamb shanks, beef cheeks. Only thing is, these are now highly sought after and prized. So meat you used to pick up for the dog is now grade-A hipster.

It's a topsy turvy world when you pay $6 for a skinny lamb shank and you can buy an entire rib eye fillet for around $20 (recent price at Supabarn $16.99 a kilo).

Advertisement

I know these aren't the most flavourful cuts but for this price, well under half what you expect to pay, well we should hook in.

The great thing about this tender part of the cow is you don't have to do much. Just remove the silver skin and slice across into 3cm sections and you have a fine steak, a fancy tournedo no less. Surely even fit for a $1000-a-plate Liberal party fundraiser.

That said, I prefer to keep heat away from this cut as in carpaccio, tataki or an old fashioned steak tartare. Essentially chopped raw steak with tartare sauce.

Fillet steak is very easy to mince with a sharp knife, it takes no time at all. Have the section prepared and chilled in the freezer until it is just hardening before you chop if you can. Then you just serve it with a range of salty and sour condiments like capers, anchovies, mustard and minced onion. Bind it with a raw egg yolk or mayonnaise, finish with a squeeze of lemon juice, herbs and freshly ground black pepper. I can knock this dish out in 10 minutes and serve with rye toast.

A luxurious meal made possible, in these lean-for-some post-budget times, by the folk at Supabarn.

Advertisement

Tartare of beef fillet

Centre cut beef fillet, trimmed of all sinew, very well chilled or even half frozen

Per portion

1 egg

1 small eschalot, minced

Advertisement

½ tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp chives, chopped

1 anchovy fillet, mashed

6 baby capers, chopped

1 lemon wedge

Advertisement

1 pinch black pepper

1 tsp olive oil

Toast, other breads to serve.

Have all the condiments ready. If you want to make this an active meal, you can arrange the condiments in a circle around the steak, and let the guests smash up the dish themselves. Otherwise mix everything together and finish with the egg yolk on top.

Separate the egg yolk as completely as you can. With a sharp knife, very finely chop the steak. Resist the temptation to run it through a mincer. You’ll need about 80g per person. Once this is done make a little pile of steak in the middle of your carefully arranged condiments and make a depression in this mound where you can plonk the egg yolk. Drizzle the steak with olive oil and serve straight away. Encourage the guests to grab the fork and really mix everything together well, smash it up as I say.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement