Just Open: +39 Pizzeria, Toorak

The team behind Little Bourke Street's +39 Pizzeria has snapped up the site of Riccardo Momesso's former Valentino Calabrian Kitchen, on the Hawksburn Village strip.

Name aside, similarities abound between the restaurants; the bright and airy space is a close replication of the city location with wall-mounted wooden boxes filled with imported Italian dry-goods, repurposed timber tables, polished concrete floors and a high-stooled, marble-top bar overlooking the open kitchen.

Expect casual, rustic fare such as beef meatballs served in a rich napoli sauce – the recipe was handed down by chef Carlo Omede's nonna – and jet-black squid ink fettucine alla marinara in a crayfish bisque.

Then there's the pizza: thin-based pies include a prosciutto-topped crudaiola​ (mozzarella, tomato and parmesan) while traditionalists can enrich their margherita experience (fior de latte, tomato, basil) with the addition of buffalo mozzarella.

Finish with the bonet, a rich chocolate pudding from the Piedmont area made with rum and amaretti biscuits.

The wine list is predominantly Italian save for local house varieties, plus Italian beers such as Peroni – the real one, not its Australian imposter.

Open Mon-Wed 5pm-9.30pm; Thu-Fri noon-3pm, 5pm-9.30pm; Sat-Sun noon-9.30pm.

517 Malvern Road, Toorak, 03 9826 8815, plus39.com.au