Just Open: Annata, Crows Nest

When a Rockpool barman and former Cafe Paci​ chef combine talent and open a new venue, one would expect it to be in a hot Sydney food suburb like Chippendale, Paddington, or possibly Double Bay. Crows Nest is not the first place that springs to mind.

"I wanted to open somewhere off the beaten tracks of Potts Point, Surry Hills and Newtown," says Christian Blair (ex Eau De Vie), last seen making Manhattans at Rockpool Bar and Grill.

"Even though I love all those areas, with Crows Nest there was an opportunity to expose locals to a style of service and food they might not have experienced before."

Annata (the Italian term for vintage) opens on Friday, October 30. On the pans is James "Jimmy" Richardson, whose resume lists The Bridge Room, Cafe Paci​ and Ume.

The Scottish-born chef will be serving modern Australian food with a flash of panache. Small plates ($12-$15) include scallops with hazelnuts, button mushrooms, chamomile and guanciale; and watermelon with black Russian tomato, buttermilk, olive and basil. At the heavier end of the menu ($18-$22) there's a black angus sirloin with seeded bread, nettles and pickled onions.

The dark-wooded, 80-seat restaurant features outdoor dining on Willoughby Road and a bar area.

Blair will be using his years of bartending​ experience to create high-quality, seasonally driven cocktails. He has also collaborated with his father Nick, a Pernod Ricard employee of 35 years, to create a wine list of nearly 100 labels.

"Dad retired about a year ago, but has had itchy feet to get back into the wine world ever since," says Blair.

"We're going to build on the list and change it regularly. Everyone's favourites are covered but there's certainly opportunity for customers to step outside their wine comfort zone if they feel like it."

Open Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm; Thu-Sun noon-3:30pm.

69 Willoughby Road Crows Nest, annatasydney.com