Just Open: Bertoni Ristorante and Bar, Sydney

They've come a long way from milk crates on the street.

The Iacono brothers - Anthony and Albert - made a name for themselves with the rustic seating outside their flagship Balmain cafe, Bertoni Casalinga. The no-frills decor was the gateway to decadent comfort food like the legendary lasagne burger, Nutella doughnuts, osso bucco and what many claim is some of the best coffee in the city.

Since then they've opened a string of other cafes - branches of Bertoni Casalinga on Kent Street and at the Darling Quarter in the inner city, and Sabbia da Bertoni at Balmoral - but Bertoni Ristorante and Bar, in the CBD, is their first tilt at pairing alcohol with the experience.

The brothers describe the 50-seat restaurant as a New York-style eatery, and the fit-out alone lives up to the bill. Industrial features such as high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows that adorn the casual dining area and bar are unmistakably big-city, but dark wooden chairs and booth seating stop it being too cold and modern.

Then there's the menu. The brothers' southern Italian family recipes have been modernised by long-time collaborator Danny Russo and head chef Naomi Lowry, and though you might need a translation app, once you decode what you're ordering it's sure to be delicious.

Antipasti including baby vegetable insalata (salad) sits alongside the formaggi misti cheese platter, roasted porchetta, lamb ragu and pesce del giorno (fish of the day), washed back with pinot grigio, chianti and classic cocktails.

Like their cafes, Ristorante aims to be affordable. Mains are $32 or less, sides are $7 and tiramisu or poached pear with vanilla gelato are $12.

If you're short on time, take-away cafe Bertoni at Farrer Place is next door, serving sweets, salads, desserts and quick coffee, from 6.30am to 5pm, Monday to Friday.

Otherwise, pull up a chair. With the Bertoni history, you can have crate expectations.

Bertoni Ristorante and Bar, Corner Phillip and Bent Streets, Sydney, (02) 9241 2127, bertoni.com.au, lunch Monday to Friday, 12pm to 2pm, dinner Wednesday to Friday, 6pm to late.