Just Open: Billy Boy Blue, Carlton North

The plan was to open an American joint in Yarraville, Janna Scott tells us. Instead she, Dan Tesoriero​ (ex-Fenix, MoVida and San Telmo) and chef Douglas Kerr (ex-Ezard) found themselves on Rathdowne Street, demolishing the gaudy red interior of Cafe 639. The result is Billy Boy Blue, a smart, Euro restaurant where locals are on first-name basis with staff less than a month in.

It's not big – inside seats 28 with another 20 on the terrace and footpath – but there's room for another 15 when the back area is ready (stay tuned for special wine dinners). The team has made good use of the space with help from Zunica Design: black banquette seating takes up as little room as possible opposite a terrazzo-tiled bar, also set with stone-blue tiles that match the obligatory pendant lights.

The Billy Boy Blue crew has been in hospitality for a combined total of 60 years; Scott met Tesoriero when Fatto was EQ and Kerr only called Melbourne home after working at Michelin-starred restaurants in Britain.

His "European, peasant-inspired menu" is split into savouries, sides and sweets, but here's the kicker: everything is available in small, medium or large serves. This applies whether ordering slow-cooked duck leg with white bean cassoulet, or octopus salad with dill, paprika and caper berries, (although best to opt for "large" Bavarian curd dumplings with chocolate mousse).

A 140-strong wine list catalogues by country instead of variety, while the mellow jazz soundtrack conjures images of unassuming restaurant "finds" in France and Italy. The owners hope to open more venues in the future that continue the nursery rhyme theme; Kitty Fisher's and Crooked House were mentioned.

Open Tue 5pm-11pm; Wed-Friday from 11am-11pm; Sat-Sun 9am-11pm.

Billy Boy Blue, 639 Rathdowne Street, Carlton, 9349 1014, billyboyblue.com.au